Painting PVC/Vinyl Trim and Components

You spent the extra money to be “Maintenance Free”.  So, why would you even consider painting your vinyl trim?  Isn’t that what you are trying to avoid?  Let’s examine what the real problem is when it comes to painting that is so frustrating—the peeling, cracking, checking, and flaking that occurs over time and ultimately requires maintenance and upkeep.  Right?

First of all, let’s not blame the paint (as long as you are using a good paint). Usually, the main cause of paint failure is the surface it is applied to; typically wood.  As the paint tries hard to hold on, the wood does everything it can to push it off.  Paint applied to vinyl doesn’t react that way.  PVC/Vinyl seems to cooperate with paint and even seems to like it.  Think about it; it does make sense that they would get along. They are cousins, in a sense.  Latex paint is, after all, sort of like a type of vinyl coating.

Painting does have some positive attributes, regardless of the surface it is applied to. Most exterior paint contains additives that resist the formation of mildew.  A painted surface tends to stay cleaner, especially on the edges.

Creative painting of the brackets to match the posts gives this home a distinctive personality.

Also, paint allows for individual expression.  What if every house on your block had the same white trim color? That’s why vinyl is the perfect material.  Leave it natural white or paint it with an acrylic latex paint.  The paint, when applied to a clean surface, will adhere extremely well and provide you with years and years of service and personality.

If you choose to paint your vinyl trim or component, there is, however, one important area of concern to consider.  How dark can you paint it?  Vinyl is not tolerant of extreme heat.  As surface temperatures approach 140 degrees, distortion caused by the softening of the material is a possibility. That’s not to say you can’t paint PVC/Vinyl darker colors.  It’s just when you are considering using a very dark color, you have to consider the level of sun exposure and how it is going to react to the increased heat caused by absorbing the sun’s energy.

Most paint colors are assigned an LRV (light reflective value) number expressed in percent. White has a value of 100 and black has a reflective value of 0.  All other colors fall in between. Typically, the LRV number is displayed on the paint chip.  Vinyl manufacturers recommend using a LRV of 55 or higher when painting PVC/Vinyl.

The protection of the overhang allows for this corbel to be painted a darker color.

In my personal opinion, I feel the LRV recommendation of 55 or higher is a conservative number and that the location of the vinyl should be factored in when considering the LRV rating of your paint color.  Individual components like porch brackets and corbels can certainly be painted darker colors due to their covered environment.  The more the bracket is shaded by a wide porch or roof overhang, the darker they can be painted.  On the other hand, gable brackets and sawn balusters which will see more direct sunlight should be painted in lighter colors that have a reflective rating of 55 or higher. For direct sun exposure, a good rule of thumb is to consider using colors no darker than those used by vinyl siding companies.

A custom, large builder component painted in various colors for distinction.

In addition to its shaded environment, a freely attached component like a bracket or a corbel can take more heat because of its small size and the increased surface area caused by the shape of the design.  A good example of increased surface area is our hollow builder components.  Many have been painted very dark colors yet have remained stable. Being hollow provides for a larger surface area inside which helps dissipate heat.

Dewdrop Sawn Baluster in natural state, before painting.

Dewdrop Sawn Baluster painted a light grey.

Because of the way they have to be installed, I do not recommend painting vinyl sawn balusters a color with a LRV less than 55.  The confining nature of the installation doesn’t allow enough room for expansion, which could possibly cause the balusters to bow as they are heated by the sun.

All in all, the lesson here is to consider the surface you are painting and its environment prior to painting. If you are painting wood, expect to be sanding and repainting it in a few years. If you are painting vinyl, use a quality acrylic latex paint in the appropriate color for its location and you will have years and years of maintenance free enjoyment.

SIDE NOTE: It’s important to know that all latex paint is not the same.  100% Acrylic Latex paint is the best for durability and fade resistance.  Just because paint says Acrylic doesn’t mean it’s 100%.  Vinyl latex paint is at the low end of the quality scale.  In between are 100 different acrylic percent combinations.  As a rule of thumb, the more a name brand latex paint costs the higher the percent of acrylic latex is in the formula.

Selecting the Proper Size Porch Bracket– Warning: Objects may appear smaller than they are.

The question I hear the most is, do you think I am ordering the right size bracket?  To answer that question effectively, my response ends up being a barrage of questions in return. There are many variables to consider when selecting the appropriate size bracket for your porch: shape, surface area, volume, background and, most importantly, visual effect. Selecting a bracket size strictly on a numeric calculation can often lead you to a bracket that appears too small in its space.  That’s why I recommend determining visual size versus actual size for your bracket. 

 Visual size is exactly how it sounds. It is the amount of space that appears to be taken up by the bracket. It is how our eye views the object in its setting. It’s similar to that statement on your side mirrors: “Objects in mirror may be closer than they appear.” Because of shape, surface area, volume and background contrast, a particular bracket may need to be 15 inches tall to visually look the same size as a 12 inch bracket. 

First things first. What needs to be considered when determing visual size is how much space you want the bracket to fill and how big of a statement you want to make with the bracket. Then, you need to take into consideration the design of the bracket. Does the shape of the bracket curve inward? Does it curve outward? How heavy is the overall design? Are there many cutouts that make it appear lighter? Will the bracket have a stong contrasting color to its background? All of these factors play a role in determing the actual size needed to reflect the visual affect desired. (See image below.)

Three different size brackets appear to take up the same space visually. The far left bracket is actually 3 inches larger than the far right. Because of their different designs, they are visually similar in size.

Contrasting colors make a bold statement, but can create a visual problem for thin and light brackets with a busy background. The wrong size bracket can easily get lost against a busy background even if left in its natural white state. Take the same bracket and paint it yellow and install it on a mostly dark blue house and you’ll see a big difference.

An example of how weak contrasting color can affect visibility. The blue brackets in this photo have weak contrast to their background. The homeowner made the right choice by selecting the larger 16" x 16" x 1" thick brackets for this application.

Viewing depth also matters when selecting the right size bracket.  Will your bracket be viewed mostly from street level and straight ahead or are you up on a hill or you have a second story? If the bracket is viewed from a steep angle (on a hill or second level), then you should consider a larger, thicker bracket that will be more visible from all angles.  Corbels for soffits are usually very popular for this reason.  A thinner bracket could be lost visually when viewed from certain angles.

Last, and certainly not least, your personal taste and style should be considered when selecting your bracket. Personal taste is as varied as snowflakes.  Your’s may be big and bold, where someone else may enjoy a more subtle and conservative statement. 

High contrast. Large bracket. Big statement. vs. Low contrast. Smaller bracket. Conservative style.

Whatever your style, taking into consideration all the factors of visual weight and appearance will certainly increase your chance that your finished project ends up as you envisioned it.

Style vs. Functionality – Selecting the Proper Size Gable Bracket

So, you’ve decided you want to add some gable decoration to your home or project. If you’re like many others, you probably hit the world wide web looking for ideas. It’s worth taking the time to find examples of what you like and visualizing them on the finished project. With the internet at your fingertips, you have the whole world to explore for ideas.

Choosing what appeals to you aesthetically is easy. Transferring the look to your project and making it work is another story. Style vs. functionality is always a challenge. Ask any architect, interior decorator or designer. Style tends to be more of an emotional factor. It’s a reflection of your personal taste and character. It’s what you know. That’s the easy part. Selecting the proper size or sizes, on the other hand, involves many factors. To select a suitable size for your gable decorations, you need to consider the height and distance that they will be viewed from. As the viewing height and distance increase, so does the size of the bracket you should consider.

LaSalle Royale Gable Bracket by Durabrac Architectural Components. Lower gable - 44" bracket, 6/12 roof pitch; Middle gable - 51" bracket; Upper gable - 60" bracket; Roof pitches - 8/12

When you look at your home or project from street level, keeping the overall visual appearance of the gable decorations even and balanced should be your primary goal (outside of choosing a style suitable to your taste). A home with multiple gables that are located at different heights and viewing distances will require several different gable brackets in various sizes as the height and distance increase. For example, a second story gable will require a larger bracket than the first story gable. The different size brackets, when viewed from the street, should have close to the same visual weight and appear to be close to the same size even though the difference in size may be as much as two feet from smallest to largest.

Fleur de la Rua Gable Bracket by Durabrac Architectural Components. Front gable - 42" bracket; Rear gable - 51" bracket; Roof pitch 6/12.

As a rule of thumb, install large gable brackets (57” to 78” wide) on two story and larger homes. Medium size brackets (45” to 60” wide) are a good selection for one story homes that are constructed off grade and narrow two story homes. Small gable brackets (34” to 46”) are designed for Dormer gables, porch gables, garages and small cottages.

A couple of other factors to consider when choosing the size of your gable bracket are the background color of the structure the bracket is going on and the color of the bracket itself. If you plan to paint your gable bracket or you are installing a white gable bracket on a light-colored home, you may want to consider a larger size. If the bracket and background color are similar in brightness you may want a larger bracket to help increase the visual size.

Now that you know what you like and how to choose the appropriate size, you are ready to finalize the look of your home or project by adding the perfect gable bracket. Gable brackets add a personal touch and distinctive style to your project and are that little something that causes the passerby to take a second look. Now all that’s left to tackle is how to handle all the compliments! Enjoy!

Top Tips for Working with Vinyl Lumber

Have you ever wondered how extensive the process is to mold, cut and carve vinyl? Or, exactly what it takes to get that smooth finish on a decorative bracket? If you were to compare the advantages of working with wood vs. vinyl, you would find that the actual physical act of carving, cutting, routing, etc. are so similar that there really is nothing to compare. If you dig deeper, however, you will find many advantages to using vinyl over wood.

Vinyl lumber has a similar feel and weight to white pine. It is harder on the surface with a dense cellular middle. One main difference is that inner cellular structure at the core of the vinyl lumber. This middle core is made up of a closed-cell material that will not allow water retention which is why PVC vinyl retains paint so well. It is all but impossible for water to penetrate behind the painted vinyl surface, therefore, eliminating peeling or cracking often associated with painted wood products.

When working with vinyl, you may find that it is not as forgiving to heat as wood.  Be sure to use sharp tools; preferably carbide tools.  The heat created by using a dull tool will soften and distort the cut. Also, you want to avoid locating vinyl trim near heat sources above 130 degrees fahrenheit. Extreme high temperatures above 130 can cause the vinyl to soften and possibly distort.  While vinyl may soften from a high heat source, it will not burn or sustain a flame on its own, unlike its flammable counterpart… wood. 

If you are proficient working with wood you will find a lot of similarities working with vinyl trimboard.   The same tools are used to cut, sand, rout or drill vinyl as with wood.  Vinyl lumber can be easily trimmed, modified and fastened in the field using the same techniques and tools used for traditional lumber.  One caution is to be sure to always use sharp tools.  The heat that can be created using dull tools can cosmetically damage the cut surface.

When cutting vinyl lumber, you will notice the cut surface has some texture to it and is not as smooth as the outer surface.  The texture does not create a visual problem because the vinyl has the same white color throughout. You can sand the exposed edges to get a smoother surface however, the cellular nature of the material will not allow it to become as smooth as the surface and you take a risk of transferring some of the darker sandpaper material onto the vinyl causing the edges to darken.  The best solution to avoiding rough edges is the same as avoiding heat damage–always work with very sharp tools. As with wood, a sharp tool yields a finer edge. 

One final note to remember about working with vinyl lumber is that you need not worry about the exposed cut edges or any parts of the product responding adversely to climate or weather conditions. The ingredient used to give the material its bright, white coloring provides a natural UV protection and is found throughout the product–on the surface and the inner core. This built in “sunscreen” allows the product to retain its natural color year after year–inside and out. 

For more details on working with vinyl/PVC lumber, please contact Mike Sheehan at 850.433.4981 or mike@cdandm.com. Mike is the owner of Classic Design and Manufacturing (CD&M), parent conpany of Durabrac Architectural Components, Classic Sign, and Classic Mailboxes. Mike has been working and creating with vinyl for over 30 years and is considered by many to be an expert of this material. All products produced by CD&M are primarily made with vinyl–including custom retail signs, residential entry signs and street signs, mailboxes, decorative brackets, columns, running trim, spandrel and more.

Vinyl vs. Wood Brackets?

The next time you are out driving around, take a look at the private homes and commercial buildings. You may notice that many are adorned with architectural brackets, corbels, spandrel and running trim for some added design and effect. Look closer. Is it vinyl or is it wood?

On many structures built within the last 10 years, you may find, to your surprise, that these extra touches added to the exterior beauty of the home are made of vinyl. Of course, if you are looking at a historical home or building or one built in the latter part of the 20th century, then those added pieces are most likely wood. Wood was the popular choice for gingerbread brackets, spandrels, etc. for many years. A designer could easily carve beautiful designs with the pliable material. Take a walk through any town’s historic district and you will most likely find wooden gingerbread adornments on the stately homes of long ago. They added a beautiful touch and created distinct personality for the home and a point of pride for the home owner.

Fast forward to the 21st century. Architectural brackets are still very much a key design element in many homes and commercial structures, with gingerbreading still a favorite among private residents. More and more commercial buildings can be seen with large, more subtly designed, brackets and soffit corbels.  Are they wood? Most likely not. Most likely those components are made out of 100% vinyl. For a large structure requiring an extra large bracket, wood would be extremely heavy. This is one of the many reasons why architects and builders are choosing vinyl over wood.

{Case in point: Zea’s Rotisserie and Grill. Their signature design for their restaurants include extra large brackets along the uppermost roof structure.}

So, you may be wondering why is vinyl becoming the preferred choice? What are the benefits of vinyl exterior components versus wood? Can you get the same ornate designs in a vinyl bracket as you can in the traditional wood brackets? First of all, if you have a historical building listed with a historical society, then most likely, any improvements done to the structure have to replicate the orginal design. Meaning, if there were wooden brackets on the building originally, then the new brackets would have to be made of wood and vinyl would not be an option. Outside of that, the choice is your own. Below is a breakdown of why vinyl is becoming the number one choice, even to the most traditional designer and/or builder….

Why Vinyl (or PVC)?
… has the look and feel of wood but is more durable and hardy
… can easily be milled with wood-working tools, routers, etc.
… can be left in its natural white and will not yellow
… can easily be painted with a latex paint
… great for any climate (cold, hot or coastal)–100% weather resistant
… does not retain moisture so paint won’t peel, crack, flake or blister
… virtually no maintenance required
… alterations easily made with standard wood-working tools
… is a very light-weight yet durable material
… cost is comparable to wood components
… density is similar to white pine so ornate, gingerbread designs are still an option

{Case in point: A private residence using vinyl brackets from Durabrac Architectural Components.}

For the savvy builder and architect, vinyl is rapidly becoming the popular choice for their designs. Ultimately, they know that by using vinyl, they are passing on to their client huge savings in maintenance costs and repairs because, unlike wood, vinyl brackets will last for years and years without requiring any major attention outside of an occassional cleaning. Of course, huge savings + cost-efficiency + little effort + a beautiful design = a happy client. And, a happy client is a beautiful thing indeed.